Let me preface this entry by explaining how the sewage system works here in Lima. You go to the bathroom, don’t flush your paper and then the waste is discarded directly into the Pacific. That’s right. It gets put into the ocean. . .
*liz, dawna and me about to put on our wetsuits!
So, Dawna convinced Liz and me that we should all go surfing. At first, I was VERY against this for the sole reason that I don’t really like swimming in “dirty” water. Ahem. Although I endured the torture of getting FIVE vaccinations before I came here, I couldn’t quite remember if I had gotten one called “human waste.” In the end, I decided to go for it. It turns out that the sewage wasn’t a problem for me so much as the freezing cold water and the rocky shore were. . . The beach in Miraflores doesn’t have sand like the beaches do back home; it is instead lined with smooth yet painful rocks. They are killer when you’re trying to get out of the water.*me, dawna and liz and a surf board!
We found our friend, Carlos, who we had met earlier in the week and told him that we wanted to surf! The first difficulty in surfing is to get on your wetsuit. That’s right, folks, putting on a USED plastic garment that is made to hug your entire body isn’t as easy or as fun as it looks. Anyway, after we got those monsters on, Carlos took us through some yoga-like stretches to get our muscles loosened up. After that, he told us to line up on the curb. When he first pushed me off the curb I was insulted and a bit miffed. He explained, though, that he was testing us to see which leg we would surf with. My left-handed tendencies came out, and I found out I surfed the opposite of “normal.” He had a word for this, but I can’t remember it now.*(back to front) carlos, me, dawna
*me on the left and dawna on the right
That first step in the water was killer! I felt like my feet were frozen and couldn’t believe that I was about to subject the rest of my body to such brutal torture. But, I did. As I paddled out to sea, a huge wave (ola) hit me in the face and took my breath away. Whew it was cold and salty to boot! I guess that first bit of salt water in the eyes and mouth is always a bit unpleasant regardless of the temperature of the water. A realization struck me almost as hard as that wave when I finally made it out far enough. It takes a LOT of upper body strength to surf! Once I finally got out there, I was too exhausted (and cold) to paddle hard enough to catch any waves. When the waves would roll in, I would hear, “Paddle! Paddle!” Easier said than done. This is where my “surf lesson” money came in handy; I was able to get a bit of a push from my instructor! Off I went in the wave. . . and Boom! I wiped out. I didn’t realize when getting into that water from a rocky shore that the bottom of the ocean would be rocky, too. (*Side note: I found a bruise on my ankle today and am now realizing that that’s where it came from. Good to know.) I smashed down all the way to the bottom and banged my foot. Yeah, that hurt!
*carlos and me in the foreground. he's coaching me a bit!But, I didn’t let it deter me. I swam back out, got another push from my amigo and this time stood all the way up!! I was so excited! All in all I wiped out twice and stood up four times. It was an adventure that I’ll not soon forget. If it hadn’t been so cold and we hadn’t lacked so much arm strength, we would’ve stayed out there longer. After about an hour and a half, we were done. We headed back up to shore and then endured the torture of trying to walk on those rocks again. A nice guy walked down and not only helped me with my surf board but gave me his flip-flops, too. I was sooooo thankful.
*carlos getting ready to give me a push!So, I mentioned how difficult it was to get that suit on. Well my friends, let me tell you that getting a WET wetsuit off while about 6 guys stand there and watch is even more of a challenge! Ugh, I thought I would be stuck in that thing forever. God had other plans, though, and all three of us managed to escape! We couldn’t help but laughing imagining the type of show we were putting on for our audience. Fun times.
*it's all over and i'm still alive and smiling! looking kind of rough, i might add, but don't judge me. . . haha.All in all, I was SOOOO glad that I had the chance to surf! I would CERTAINLY do it again in the future if I ever had the chance. It was amazing to stand on a board while riding on top of a wave. . . Incredible, I tell you.
*carlos, dawna, liz and me. surf's up, dude!
Skydiving: check!
Mototaxi: check!
Surfing: check!
Next on my list. . . hot air ballooning. . . Anyone want to go?
*disclaimer: I did NOT go skydiving while here in Peru. Nonetheless, I felt it was necessary to include it on my list of “extreme” adventures! :)
*liz, me and dawna posing with our surfboards for one last picture.“If any of you lacks wisdom, he should ask God, who gives generously to all without finding fault, and it will be given to him. But when he asks, he must believe and not doubt, because he who doubts is like a wave of the sea, blown and tossed by the wind.”-James 1:5-6




